UZBEKISTAN - THE CENTRAL ASIAN ENCHANTMENT

Magnificence is a part of the everyday in Uzbekistan as evidenced by its spectacular architecture, remarkable monuments and beautiful landscapes. I planned a three-city visit to Uzbekistan in April 2024 and covered Tashkent, Samarkhand and Bukhara. A historically important country in Central Asia, Uzbekistan is regarded as a crossroad of civilizations.

The interiors of the monuments in Uzbekistan are spectacular with ceilings that blow your mind away with intricate designs and their dominant use of blue and turquoise.

Art resides in every nook with astounding Suzani embroidery, exquisite ceramics, ornamental woodwork and copper carvings. You continue to be astounded by the art on the walls, in the streets, in restaurants, and on garbage cans!

Tashkent

I began my travels in Tashkent, the capital city of Uzbekistan, which is an exciting mix of tradition and modern with monuments commemorating its Soviet-era history alongside glass façade skyscrapers, swanky malls and bustling bazaars. Vast green spaces in Tashkent made long walks so much more delightful as you spotted Magpies fluttering about and people catching a rest on park benches, slowing down the pace on a busy day.

Khast Imam complex, named after Tashkent’s first imam, holds 7 monuments including Barak Khan madrassa that displays a 8th century Quran of Caliph Ottoman in a manuscripts library. Built with blue tiles and sandalwood columns, the complex houses the Barak Khan madrassa, Tellya Sheikh mosque, Abu Bakr Kaffal Shashi mausoleum and the Islamic Institute of Imam al-Bukhari. It is a brilliant introduction to Islamic architecture and to the city’s religious history.

Chorsu Bazaar holds a large Uzbek spice market that attest to its flavourful and aromatic food. Dried nuts and fruit also form a large part of Uzbeki culture and exports. You can also buy fresh produce, ceramics, clothes, and Suzani embroidery carpets from the market. An entire section is dedicated to sweets and bakery items while another one to toys. Since it was Eid when I visited, the market was bustling with lots of shoppers.

Independence Park, earlier called Lenin square, was built in 1999 and has beautiful fountains and a symbolic statue of mother and child representing Uzbekistan and its citizens.

Square of Memory and Honour is a war memorial that commemorates Uzbeki soldiers lost in World War II with their names stamped in gold letters in the Book of Memory. It holds the Statue of the Waiting Mother with an eternal flame as a mark to remember all mothers waiting for news on soldiers at war with the inscribed words translating as: "You are always in our hearts, my dear!"

Tashkent’s robust metro network, designed originally as an underground nuclear shelter, has thematic designs for its stations with arches, marble columns and domes that leave you in awe. Built between 1972-77, it is the oldest subway in Central Asia and is an architectural and design delight. The use of granite, marble, tiles, stained glass in design make it stunning to look at. Like Kosmonavtlar station is themed after cosmos and space, and features stars, planets and murals of Soviet space explorers. Tashkent station depicts the Uzbeki life and history of Tashkent. Even if you do not use the metro for travel, visit to the stations to witness the splendour is a must!

Monument of Courage was built in 1976 as a tribute to the rebuilding of the city after the devastating 1966 earthquake that flattened the city. The memorial holds a granite cube marking the time (5:22am) of the first tremor and a statue of Uzbeki family seeking cover. Amir Temur square holds a large statue of Amir Temur, the Central Asian king who is deemed as the national hero of Uzbekistan. There is a museum dedicated to him in Tashkent that can be visited.

Broadway Boulevard is a bustling street of art, books, music, cafes and local food. Surrounded by large green spaces on both sides, it is wonderful for an evening stroll. The glitz is marked at the Tashkent city mall, the largest shopping mall in Uzbekistan.

On my last day in Tashkent, I visited Chimgan mountains in the Tien Shan mountain range. It is popular for trekking and skiing at Amirsoy resort at the top of the mountain. Chimgan means green valley but my cable car ride up to the top saw a blanket of white with extensive snow. The mountain was filled with snow and I was grossly underprepared for the cold because generally it doesn’t snow much in April. It was truly a mesmerising experience and a great way to end the city visit before catching the evening Afrosiyab train to Bukhara.

Bukhara

With strong Silk Road history for trade and considered as Central Asian Mecca, Bukhara regales you with an old time charm. Visiting Bukhara is a walk through architectural mastery, cultural learnings and everything in shades of brown with glazed blue and turquoise. I spent 2 days in the city and was charmed by its historic vibe.

The carved wooden pillars and ornate ceilings with jharoka windows at the mausoleum of Bakhautdin Naqshband, Bukhara’s patron saint and an important Sufi leader add to its serenity. The mausoleum holds the tomb of Naqshband and is considered as Central Asian Mecca by believers. The complex holds a museum on Sufism, a venerated tree that is believed to have grown where the saint struck his staff after his Hajj and several teachings and quotes that ask people to be humble and use their hands for God’s work.

The Ark Citadel is as old as Bukhara itself and was used as a military fort to protect the city. Built in 5th century and spanning over almost 4 hectares, it has witnessed several battles and rebellions. Before 1920 it was used as the residence of Bukharan emirs while today it hosts a history museum and archaeological sites including mosques, bathhouse, and prisons.

Part of the UNESCO heritage site list and built in 1712, Bolo Khauz mosque has 20 elegantly designed wooden pillared façade, overlooking an artifical pond earning its name Bolo Khauz – overlooking the pond. Built across the Ark Citadel, it was used by the Emir for prayer and often saw people gathering about for water at the pond. The ceiling at the mosque has stunning fretwork with geometric and floral designs. Part of the UNESCO heritage site list and built in 1712, Bolo Khauz mosque has 20 elegantly designed wooden pillared façade, overlooking an artifical pond earning its name Bolo Khauz – overlooking the pond. Built across the Ark Citadel, it was used by the Emir for prayer and often saw people gathering about for water at the pond. The ceiling at the mosque has stunning fretwork with geometric and floral designs.

Po-i-Kalon courtyard has the Kalon mosque, largest city mosque on the right; Kalon Minaret built in 1127 AD in front, and Mir-i-Arab madrasa on the left. Visually, a remarkable site for Islamic architecture and of historic Old Town Bukhara, the complex was the first to use glazed blue mosaics which later became pervasive across Uzbekistan. The minaret with 105 steps offers grand view of the city while the mosque’s roof is made of 288 domes. The day and night views of the courtyard are distinctive and defining.

Inscribed with verses from famous poets, Abdulaziz Khan Madrassa has a high entrance with bright yellow decorative designs meant to represent the grandeur of Central Asian architecture.

Ismail Samanid Mausoleum made of intricate baked terracotta bricks has survived 11 centuries and is an architectural mix of Persian, Islamic and Buddhist styles.

What marks the entrance of Nadrid Divan-begi madrassa as distinctive are the mosaics with motifs of animals and mythical bird – the Persian simurgh.

The vast white ceremonial hall with majestic chandelier to greet guests and luxurious pop of colours with stained glass windows of the inner chambers at Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa, the summer palace of Bukhran Emirs, reeks of nobility and grandeur. Walking around the palace, gardens and summer residences and taking in the opulence seen in the Venetian mirrors, white furniture nooks, and mosaic fireplace mantels before taking the Afrosiyab train to Samarkand.

Samarkhand

Samarkand overwhelms you with its lovely people, grandeur, history and culture. It truly represents the crossroads of civilizations preserving culture, trade, art, architecture and glory, like a walk down the lane of history!

Ulugbek Observatory, built in 1428 by astronomer Ulugh Bek, is the largest astronomical observatory of the Middle Ages that was used to observe the Sun, Moon to make astronomical readings without instruments and with an unaided eye. With amazing exactness, Bek was the first to make the calculation of the length of a year to be 365 days!

The majestic golden-mosaic restored ceiling of the Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the resting place of Emperor Timur.

Church of St. Alexius was built in 1912 and combines Russian and Uzebki elements in architecture with stained glass windows, dark green tops and ceilings made of white tiles with blue design.

The brown-stoned St John the Baptist Church was built in 1916 and its neo-gothic architecture makes a formidable impression on the eye.

Part of the UNESCO World Heritage List, Registan Square is where history comes alive. If you have read about the Great Silk Trade Route and its significance, this square was called the Caravan Sarai – the major commercial stop for traders. Today it hosts the world’s oldest preserved madrassas: Ulugh Beg (1420), Sherdor (1636) and Tilla-Kori (1660).

The largest mosque in Central Asia, Bibi Khanym mosque was built for Timur’s wife Bibi Khanum in 1404. With majestic blue domes and carved marble and high minarets, it holds a large grey Mongolian marble Quran in its inner courtyard. The tall arched main gate at about 38 mt has decorative elements with Arabic calligraphy. It has been rebuilt and restored over the years.

Shakhi Zinda Necropolis is a complex of grand palace-like mausoleums built in 14th-15th centuries. The name means ‘Tomb of the Living King’ as it holds the tomb of Kusam Ibn Abbas, one of the first missionaries of Islam in Central Asia and the cousin of the Prophet. An UNESCO World Heritage site, the spectacular carved glazed terracotta interiors blow your mind away.

The warmth of Uzbekis that I experienced and hospitality extended especially their love for tea was heartening. Locals often speak to tourists and would speak of either Raj Kapoor or Shahrukh Khan once told that I am from India. The Silk Road charm coming to life, the impressive mosaics, the diversity in architecture and flavours between the cities, and the vibrant handicrafts mark the Uzbeki experience. Natural beauty, preserved rich history and culture and vibrant food traditions made Uzbekistan an enchanting travel experience.

Food Adventures

Travel experiences are incomplete without local food and these are some of the best offerings of Uzbeki cuisine and culinary traditions:

1. Plov/pilaf is integral to Uzbekistan’s culinary hospitality and a must-have in all celebrations and ceremonies. It is fragrant and flavourful rice and lamb preparation prepared in large hearths and is the Uzbeki precedent of the Indian pulao.
2. Manti are Central Asian steamed dumplings eaten in a soupy stew and served with sour cream. Tender and mixed with spices, they are a must-try in your travels.
3. Shashlik is a popular Central Asian delicacy and literally means six pieces of meat. Marinated with pomegranate juice, it is roasted on coal in skewers and its aroma reaches your stomach first.
4. Lagman is a key to Uzbeki national cuisine as a hand-pulled noodle soup with aromatic broth and generous servings of meat and vegetables. It is absolutely delicious and leaves you asking for more.
5. Samsa is a culinary experience to be enjoyed on the streets. Minced meat with spices baked with thin dough, samsa is best gobbled hot as it scalds your mouth! Its Indian counterpart is the samosa.
6. One falls in love with Uzbekistan also because they love making and serving tea. Tea is consumed with every meal! Served in traditional ceramic pots, there are various flavours to choose from while the traditional green herbal tea is deemed the best.
7. Baklava is a layered pastry from Eurasia and Uzbeki Pakhlava is more dense, sweeter and with walnuts. It is a melt-in-your-mouth dessert that leaves a rich aftertaste.

Food Items

ART

What to Buy?

Ceramics, Suzani embroidery (scarves, carpets, clothes), Samarkhand paper, Miniature paintings, Ikat fabrics, Wood carvings, bread stamps – chekich (ideal gift for bakers), jewellery – kashgar boldak (long tassle earrings), Uzbek tea, wine, and fruit jams.

(Suggested markets: Chorsu bazar in Tashkent, Siyab bazaar in Samarkand, Central Bazaar in Bukhara)